🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.